Last time we talked about the two areas of the engine that affect rotation: the externals and the internals. For those new to the article series, we are talking about a seized up engine, or an engine that refuses to rotate.

What was not discussed was what are the most likely problem areas on an engine that would cause it to seize up?

First thing I would do is take two parts off the engine so that you can access the most common problem areas:

- The Blower Housing
- The Cylinder Head

(Disassembly Note: Keep all the bolts in the correct alignment and order for the cylinder head. Also take care with the head gasket to keep it in the correct alignment. Think of this as a 3-D puzzle and you are putting the sections of the puzzle aside for reassembly.)

Okay once you have gotten the cylinder head off and the blower housing off you be looking for a couple of things:

-Rusted Flywheel to the magneto
-Rusted cylinder
-Rusted main shaft to the lower bearing.
-Seized up engine due to overheating….

9 times out of 10 it is the flywheel rusted to the magneto. If this is an old engine, you will probably have points. Not to worry, just pop off the flywheel and replace the points (they are available at the local hardware store. Or is you are ambitious, just buy the conversion kit (pretty easy really) and never have to worry about points again!)

A rusted cylinder is pretty serious, but not an impossible task. The nice thing about aluminum cylinder engines is that the aluminum and rust don’t bond, so you can actually break free the rusted cylinder. The way to do this is to spray the cylinder with penetrating oil and let sit for 4 to 5 hours. Put the cylinder upright so that gravity is working to pull the penetrating oil into the rusted areas.

Then gently take a piece of wood (very soft preferably pine) and place it on the top of the piston. Tap the top of the piece of wood with a hammer. This generally breaks free the frozen piston. You may discover that NO movement has occurred. There is a slight chance that the piston may be at top dead center. We are assuming it is not. (One FYI… make sure the blower cover, or the cord return mechanism is not connected. This will work against you if the piston wants to go down and force the engine to go backwards!)

The rusted main shaft, is hard to tell if that actually has occured, unless you know some of the history of the engine prior to purchase. Meaning, did the engine sit idle for 3 years outside? Was the oil reservoir full when you opened looked in?

The last question is probably the most important, because it will let you in on a couple of things prior to even BUYING the engine.

If there is not oil, then the question is: what is there in the crankcase? Water? or Nothing?

To tell if there is water, or was water, look for rust colors in the bottom of the oil fill hole. If no oil, then there will be oil residue, with lots of chunks, but not much else. There may be a little oil, but it may have run dry.

If there was water, then you may, have a rusted lower bearing, and perhaps most of the innards (though unlikely) rusted. If that is the case then disassemble the engine, by taking off the outer crank case cover.

If there was little or no oil, check the walls of the cylinder for excessive scoring. When I mean scoring I mean gouges, or scratches, or even marks that resemble melting on the cylinder walls. Gouges and scratches typically will fair okay, but a large melt mark will be trouble and will require honing, and a new oversized piston and new rings. (Just so you know, I have oversized my engines a couple of times and have had minimum success. They end up turning into mosquito abatement machines in short order…!)

You will discover that most engines are not that serious as any of the things I have discussed.

But say it is, then we need to go down each trail…

Bottom line is we do not know what is going on inside the engine, we need to take a sneak peek. The quickest way to find out something is to check the cylinder…. The second is to check the insides…that is a little more involved and will require a whole new article!

And one last FYI: If the engine was mounted to a water pump, then more than likely the engine has a rusted end bearing. If the engine has a rusted end bearing, then the internals of the engine are more than likely rusted.

Water pump engines are usually junk, and are only good for parts such as pistons, valves, carbs.

Motorcycles have been in vogue for a long time. They are heavy machines which are rugged and heavy. Men have always liked riding motorcycles. Choppers – a type of motorcycle, has have been in existence since the end of the Second World War.

Why did the choppers come into existence? Soldiers who fought in the Second World War were used to light motorcycles in Britain. They were fun to ride. They were dissatisfied Harley-Davidson, the company which manufactured heavy motorbikes. They wanted something different. They made changes by removing certain parts that were heavy and which made it look big and ugly. Fenders, front brakes, windshields and turn indicators were removed. The saddle was originally large and was made small. The whole bike was made convenient for dirt racing. The handle bars were higher than before. The front tire was thinner and the back fatter. The large foot rest, petrol tank and head light were made much smaller. They were generally made of black or shiny metal. Their seats were low but the pillion seat was much higher than that of the driver’s. Some even removed the batteries and had a magneto to reduce the weight of the bike.

The bike was transformed from the original. Not everyone had the same type of bike. It could be custom made by the small shops that had sprung up, to satisfy each person’s needs. They did not want to leave the Harley-Davidson model. They changed the original in such a way that it was a much lighter and fun bike to ride. These bikes are the choppers.

The main aim was to get a rugged bike like Harley-Davidson and chop off all the bulky parts and remove, fit and weld lighter parts. This made the bike lighter, faster and more maneuverable. These choppers are now being made by big companies also. This was initially the work of small motor bike shops which put together the various parts that the customer wanted. So, it was custom made. Now many varieties of choppers are made by companies that are the big manufacturers.

These bikes also have to be built according to a set of rules. They should be roadworthy and should be such that though the choppers are not heavy, they should be strong enough for using on roads. In the United States the custom made choppers are given license to be used on the highway. Not many countries give them this license.

Choppers are now used the world over. Some prefer using British or Japanese engines. These bikes are not restricted to be used by the big, burly, hefty guys. Although war veterans and others were involved in its making, these bikes are used by anyone who loves bikes. The different shape and the size makes it great fun to drive these bikes. Since choppers are manufactured the world over, all types of people, big and small, use these custom made choppers.

The choppers are mainly for their shape, size and speed. Its shape can be custom made to suit anyone’s needs. So, it is not necessary that only big guys can ride it. Although the ride can be risky, the high speeds definitely thrill the youngsters who love their choppers. Anyone interested in riding the chopper can do so.

A motorcycle is a two wheeled machine which is propelled forward by a motor. This motor is generally an internal combustion engine which imparts the forward momentum to the machine. The principle of gyro motion dictates the essence of motorcycle movement forward where the Centripetal and centrifugal forces balance each other while the bike is in motion. Both these forces complement each other and give stability to the bike in motion. A forward momentum (Mass x Velocity) is an essential component for stability of the motorcycle when in motion. This forward motion balances the centripetal and centrifugal forces. This forward movement is achieved through the power supplied by the internal combustion motor or engine. The motorcycle engine may run on gasoline or diesel. But now electric power for traction is another option that is available.

In almost all motorcycles the engine is located just below the petrol tank. This position has the effect of lowering the center of gravity of the bike and gives the machine greater stability. The motorcycle is propelled forward by the engine which supplies its traction power through a steel chain that is connected to the rear wheel. All motorcycles are rear wheel driven. Power is transmitted from the rear wheel by means of this metal chain.

The motorcycle motor’s construction is quite simple. It consists of a single or set of pistons that move in a chamber or a sleeve .The motion is generated by an electric spark. The electric spark ignites a gas and air mixture that releases gases that move the pistons up and down in a cycle. The pistons when they move generate power to a mechanism that moves a connecting chain to the rear wheel. All motorcycles are rear driven.

The power that is generated by the motorcycle engine is through the movement of the piston. When the pistons move they impart the power to the crank which in this case is the chain. The cycle of motion of the piston in the cylinder may follow a two stroke or four strokes. Two stroke engines have a simpler construction and thus are easier to maintain. They also generate more operating power vis a vis four stroke engines. But four stroke engines are more eco-friendly and give a smoother ride on the road. Another advantage of 4 stroke engines is that they can have multiple cylinders. This in turn translates to greater operating power. In two stroke engines very second stroke is the power stroke while in the 4 stroke engines the power stroke is the 4th stroke. A stroke refers to a single movement of the piston.

All motorcycle motors have a rated capacity. This capacity is related to the volume of the chamber in which the piston operates. The capacity of these motors may vary from 25 cc to 1500 cc. The capacity of the pistons and chamber is directly proportional to the output of power. This is also referred to as Brake horse power.

The bike motor is started by means of an electric spark. This in turn ignites the gas air mixture in the chamber and sets the pistons into motion. This spark is generated by a dynamo. Earlier bikes were all kick start. The bike was started by pumping a lever down wards with the leg. But latest motorcycles have incorporated the self start option. In such bikes the pistons are fired by a starter motor.

The older motorcycles had their current supplied by a magneto. Now however the latest bikes are replaced by Capacitor Discharge Ignition. CDI systems provide higher ignition current for starting making the bike easier to start. Kawasaki was the first to adapt this for motorcycles.

Another variant of the bike motor is the diesel engine. Unlike in cars the diesel engine is not adapted for large scale motorcycle use. This is because the diesel engine has a lower efficiency and is also heavier than a corresponding petrol engine. Diesel engines are prone to greater vibration and are generally unsuitable for two wheelers. However a limited variety of diesel powered bikes are in the market.

Bikes with large displacement usually have multi-cylinders. Such motorcycles may have 2, 4 or even 6 cylinders. There are many types of multi-cylinder options available in the market. Cylinders of the bike motors may be positioned in vertical or twin cylinder configuration. They may also be positioned in line. Another development is the Wankel engine made by Felix Wankel (1902 – 1988). Wankel engines generate greater power for the motorcycle. Bike motors can go up to six cylinders. Six cylinders are fitted on the heaviest bikes and include bikes like the Honda CBX and the Kawasaki KZ1300.

Liquid-cooled motorcycles engines are a further development. Such motorcycles engines have a radiator like in a car. The radiator follows the principle of heat dissipation and keeps the engine cool by circulating water or a liquid coolant. Liquid cooled engines can however be fitted only on the larger bikes and are unsuitable for lower displacement bikes. Liquid cooled bikes for a specific displacement generate greater power than air cooled bike engines. They also last longer than an air cooled engine. Air-cooled bikes are however much cheaper to buy and maintain with simpler construction.

However, 4 stroke engines have captured the commercial market. Four stroke engine bikes give a smoother ride on the road and also generate greater power over broader spectrum of speed. But despite this two stroke engines are in great demand in the developing countries, as cost is a big factor there. In the United States and Western Europe the two stroke bike is now an oddity and motorcycle manufacturers mostly market four stroke bike variants.

Another variant of the motorcycle engine is the electric engine. These engines are still in the development stage and are presently only used to power small scooters and mopeds. These electric motors mostly operate on lead acid batteries. However a negative point against these batteries is that they take more than 4 hours to recharge. They also have limitations of speed and performance and unsuitable for heavier bikes. However some concept bikes using a lithium battery have been tested but they are far from commercial production stage due to the prohibitive cost involved.
About the Author: graduation favors

The choice of which tractor to purchase is crucial in guaranteeing that your farm works effectively and the wrong choice of tractor could result in loss of productivity and efficiency. In the current economic climate, many farmers and collectors are turning to vintage tractors as a way of providing cost effective farm machinery for their farming business. Collectors clubs and associations are a great way to talk to other collectors and learn from their experiences. People who are interested in antique machinery have formed clubs and occasionally paraded their new found wares through the streets of small towns through the country. These acts as a big incentive making folks in the farming community buy an antique agriculture tractor to use and cherish instead investing lots of capital in their more modern counterparts.

Most vintage tractors for sale are still in full working order and will prove to be a great investment as well as a working machine for the farm. However, don’t be blinded by good value, you need to carry out a full investigation of the machine before you lay out any of your investment money. Over the years I have found that there are 4 main areas of concern that you should pay attention to when purchasing a vintage tractor, these are:

1. Does it start OK? — A tractor that starts simply will eliminate many items in single shot. Good Battery, compression, ignition wiring / magneto, fine-tune, fuel flow, carb are implied (not assured) by this. If it does not start simply, it may be a good machine but you won’t escape some work on it. If the tractor is out and heated up prior to your arrival, you lose a crucial checklist item, namely the cold start.

2. Does it run well when hot — Getting it hot is a total must if you’d like to find out how it will work after you plowed the first row. There are simple and complex Problems that can cause the tractor to run poorly after it warms up. Plan on spending a half-hour running it. Finally after heat up, shut it down and see whether it will start.

3. Do the brakes work fine — although the brakes are cheap to replace, they are inaccessible on many tractors and will require intensive teardown to get the new ones in. The tractor should spin and the wheel should not revolve.

4. Does it make clunking noises from within the engine — An easy ticking from the top of the engine could be a straightforward valve adjustment but a deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine would indicate quite serious and expensive repairs. This may be an indication of problems with the crankshaft, bearings, or piston rods.

We have been talking about ignition systems and their repair, but one important component is flywheel removal. Especially if you have an engine with points. Typically the points are underneath the flywheel, and when they go bad, the flywheel must be removed.

You will discover that flywheels have illusive retention devices, in particular the rapid rewind systems that include ball bearings.

You will also discover that once you figure out how to remove the “rapid rewind cog system” that the flywheel is fixed pretty hard on the crank shaft.

This article is about:

- How to first of all remove the “rapid rewind cog system.”
- Secondly how to remove the stubborn flywheel
- And finally how to put it all back together again.

It should be noted that the flywheel has fins on it. If any of these fins become broken, the engine will become out of balance and vibrate intensely. If the fins are broken, the flywheel is junk, so be very careful around the fins.

To remove the “rapid rewind cog” use a pipe wrench and a screw driver. The pipe wrench is put on the “rapid rewind cog” and the screw driver is inserted in between the cast iron fins. (Note: there are aluminum fins, stay away from them, they will break)

Rotate the crank shaft so that the screw driver is pressed against an immovable object. Another method which is more forgiving, is to wedge a piece of wood (this works best when the engine is mounted to the engine mounts on the go kart) under the flywheel. This acts like a wedge brake.

Gently press down on the pipe wrench. Excessive force is not needed here. The “rapid rewind cog” generally comes off rather easily then.

A note with respect to the “rewind cog”: unless you like chasing ball bearings all over the floor, keep in mind that typically a screen covers the rewind. Remove the screen, BUT put the retention screws back in place right away. This makes the “rewind cog” stay together, and also be accessible to the pipe wrench.

Next the flywheel is stuck on the crank shaft with a press fit. Actually the flywheel is press fit using a cone shaft aperture on the crankshaft. The object is to “pop” the press fit. To do this generally a shock needs to be introduced into the system.

There are two methods that work best. First shock the end of the crank shaft with a very hard piece of wood and a mallet. Note: do not use steel on steel, the end of the crank shaft will become mushroomed over and become unusable. Repair is usually not doable.

There are tools available that you put on the end of the crankshaft, but even they can damage the crankshaft. So be careful to use minimal blows on the crank. And in case I did not make myself clear, the blows are normal, or perpendicular, or axial to the crankshaft, not to the side of the crank, but to the end of it.

Sometimes that does not work. If the engine has been sitting around for years, or is over 10 years old, the crank may have rusted partially to the flywheel.

Use a little penetrating oil at the flywheel, crank interface.

Then pry the back of the flywheel, very gently, and evenly with a flat head screw driver, or even a prybar. Very light action is needed. If you are reefing on the screw driver, there is something wrong. (something else is holding the flywheel on!)

The flywheel should “pop” off right away, so be sure to catch it before it flies off and falls on the floor. I suggest having a catch system such as rags or cardboard.

To reinstall the flywheel put it back together the same way it came apart. Use the pipe wrench and the screw driver method to tighten the “rewind cog.”

Again, do not over tighten the “rewind cog.” Also take note that the washer was put back in place.

Just as a side note, the only real reason a flywheel should be removed on modern magneto style engines is if the key way sheared. If the key way sheared you should be looking at other areas on the engine for damage…

Two friends had a dream and while they worked together at a Milwaukee
engineering firm they turned their dream into reality. We know their
dream as – Harley Davidson. William S Harley and Arthur
Davidson built the first 400cc single-cylinder engine in 1902. Joining
them a year later was Davidson’s older brothers Walter and
William A, and together they fitted the single-cylinder engine into the
frame of a bicycle, which became the prototype for Harley Davidson
Motorcycles. All of this was accomplished from a small shed in the
Davidson’s yard.

Even though the motor was reliable, it was enlarged because it was
underpowered. The initial frame was too weak to hold the new engine so
it was replaced with a stronger, more substantial structure that was
built similar to the prototype. In 1903 they produced two more bikes
and three the following year. By 1907, Harley Davidson’s
growing reputation for their reliable product helped to push their
annual production rate to over 150. The year was also 1907 when Harley
Davidson decided it was time to raise money for expansion. They became
a corporation and divided the shares among seventeen employees. They
moved themselves out of the Davidson’s shed and into a much
bigger premise which is still their location – Juneau Avenue
in Milwaukee.

The early models of Harley-Davidson motorbikes had no lights and no
suspension. Within a few years after production began,
Harley’s soon had fitted leading link forks a magneto
ignition and a carbide gas headlamp. The model 5 produced in 1909 had
about 4bhp from its 494cc inlet over exhaust engine, with a speed of
45mph. Bicycle petals were used to start the engine. Once the bike was
in motion the leather drive belt was tightened using a hand lever. (To
have a more contemporary view of what harley
davidson parts now look like, please visit our website).

The first V-twin Harley was built in 1909. It was the model 5D but was
not an immediate success. The V-twin produced close to 7bhp, which was
almost twice as much as the single engine but it was difficult to start
and suffered from a slipping drive belt. Two years later, in 1911, they
introduced the 45-degree V-twin with a revised valve gear, new frame
and had been fitted with a full floating seat and chain drive. These
new improvements made a huge difference which caused the
V-twin’s popularity to grow. By the year 1913 the model
9E’s 1000cc power plant was producing 10bhp which gave the
bike a top speed of 60mph.

Initially Harley-Davidson was reluctant to get themselves involved in
racing, such as reliability runs however, by 1914 they changed their
minds and entered a factory team. The firm’s Milwaukee crew,
the “Wrecking Crew” rode powerful 8-valve V-twins
which were very competitive against the rival Merkel and Excelsior, and
Indian. This became a great period for Harley-Davidson as production
rose to more than 22,000 bikes and 16,000 sidecars in 1919. These
numbers were cut in half in the upcoming 2 years mainly because of the
Model T Ford, which put the majority of American motorcycle companies
out of business.

Harley-Davidson is known for its large capacity V-twins but the smaller
45ci Forty Five played a vital part in the history of the company. The
Forty Five, produced in 1928, was the first machine with a total loss
oil system. It was restyled and updated 9 years later to create the W
series. It was the simple and strong Forty Five that kept
Harley-Davidson in business through the Depression of the
1930’s. The WLA model proved to be a useful military machine
in which close to 80,000 were being used in the Second World War. These
“war bikes” were converted for civilian use after
the war was over which helped to popularize Harley-Davidson worldwide.

In 1936, while still suffering the effects of the Depression,
Harley-Davidson introduced the Model 61E. This model’s 61cc
V-twin engine was a huge advancement over other models due to its
overhead valve design and recirculating oil system. The neat style of
the 61E helped it become a huge success. It became known as the
knucklehead because of the shape of the engines rocker covers. It gave
it a technical advantage over its rival Indian and became the ancestor
to modern Harley’s.

Harley-Davidson will forever be synonymous with producing great bikes.
What started as a dream, survived the Depression, and is still going
strong today. There is nothing quite like hearing the rumble of a
Harley as you’re heading for the highway.